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How Often Should I Service Wheel Bearings on a Box Truck?

“How Often Should I Service Wheel Bearings on a Box Truck?” Your steer tires are humming, a hub cap looks hotter than the other, or you just failed an annual DOT because of excessive wheel-end play. Now you’re asking: “How often should I service wheel bearings on a box truck—and what does ‘service’ actually mean?” Short answer: For most Class 3–7 box trucks, plan a full wheel-end inspection at least once a year or every 25,000–50,000 miles , and a bearing clean/repack or oil change every 100,000–150,000 miles (or 12–24 months) —earlier if you run heavy, hot, or stop‑and‑go routes. Oil‑bath hubs need fluid checks at every PM; grease‑packed hubs need periodic tear-down, cleaning, new seals, and correct torque/preload. Manufacturer specs always win, but this guide gives you real-world intervals, what drives them shorter or longer, how pros service bearings correctly, cost/downtime expectations, and the questions you should ask before a smoking hub sidelines you. Quick Takeaways An...
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Box Truck Leans to One Side—Is It Springs, Frame Twist, or Load?

“Box Truck Leans to One Side—Is It Springs, Frame Twist, or Load?” You look at your box truck from the rear and it’s cocked a couple inches lower on one side. Drivers complain it “feels weird” in turns, doors rub, and freight shifts. The big question: “Why is my truck leaning—bad springs, twisted frame, or just a lopsided load?” Short answer: Most lean complaints boil down to uneven load or sagged/broken suspension parts —but a bent frame rail, collapsed body mounts, or even low tire pressure can mimic the same look. This guide helps you separate quick fixes from structural issues: what to check first, how to measure ride height correctly, repair options, costs, and how to keep the lean from coming back. Quick Takeaways Always rule out simple stuff first : uneven cargo, low tire/airbag pressure, stuck liftgate, or water tank on one side. Leaf springs lose arch, crack, or break center pins —a top cause of permanent lean. Air-ride systems leak : a bad valve or bag dumps one side...
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Can You Add Extra Marker Lights or Strobes to Box Truck for Visibility?

“Can You Add Extra Marker Lights or Strobes for Visibility?” Dark rural routes, pounding rain, fogged‑up mirrors—sometimes the factory lights on a box truck just don’t cut it. Drivers ask for more side markers, high‑mount strobes, or extra ID lights on the rear header. The real question: “Can you add extra marker lights or strobes for visibility—and is it legal?” Short answer: Yes—but you have to follow FMVSS 108/DOT color and placement rules , wire them correctly (proper fusing/relays/grounds), and use sealed, durable fixtures. Do it right and you’ll be safer, more visible, and ticket‑free. Quick Takeaways Adding lights is legal as long as color, placement, and function don’t conflict with required lamps. Color rules: Amber forward/side, red rear. White is for backup/work lights. Skip blue/red “emergency” colors. Strobes/flashers: Allowed as auxiliary warning lights in many states—use amber/clear and separate switches. Don’t overload OEM circuits. Run new fused fe...
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Box Truck Backup Camera Quit—Do You Handle Wiring Issues?

  “Box Truck Backup Camera Quit—Do You Handle Wiring Issues?” Your backup camera screen is black (or stuck on blue), the image cuts out when you hit a bump, or the picture looks like a snowstorm. Now you’re wondering: “Do you guys actually handle the wiring, or do I need an auto electrician?” Short answer: Yes—if it’s on or routed through the box body, we diagnose and repair the wiring, cameras, monitors, and power/ground issues that make them fail. This guide explains why backup cameras die, how to troubleshoot them, what a proper repair looks like, cost/downtime expectations, and the smart questions to ask before you buy yet another cheap camera kit. Quick Takeaways Most camera failures are wiring/connection problems : chafed harnesses, corroded grounds, blown fuses, bad reverse-trigger feeds—not the camera itself. We handle full diagnostics end to end : power/ground tests, harness tracing through the body, connector replacements, and camera/monitor swaps. Water + v...
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Box Truck LED Upgrade Worth It for Interior Cargo Lights?

  “Box Truck LED Upgrade Worth It for Interior Cargo Lights?” Your drivers are fumbling in the dark, pallets get misread, and you burn through incandescent bulbs like candy. Someone says, “Just switch to LEDs—it’s brighter and cheaper.” You ask the real question: “Is a box truck LED upgrade actually worth it for interior cargo lights?” Short answer: Almost always, yes— if you pick the right fixtures, wire them correctly, and think through brightness, beam spread, switching, and durability. This guide breaks down ROI, lumen targets, install best practices, common pitfalls (glare, cheap strips, electromagnetic noise), and the questions you should ask before buying a random Amazon light bar. Quick Takeaways LEDs draw 60–80% less current than incandescent/fluorescent cargo lights and last 10–20× longer. Aim for ~20–40 lumens per square foot of floor space for general cargo visibility; more for fine picking/inspection. Choose sealed, vibration-rated fixtures (IP65+ ide...
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My Box Truck/Trailer Lights Keep Blowing Fuses—Short or Bad Ground?

“My Box Truck/Trailer Lights Keep Blowing Fuses—Short or Bad Ground?” You pop in a new fuse and—zap—it’s gone before you get out of the yard. Marker lights flicker, turn signals die when you hit the brakes, and night runs become a gamble. So you’re asking: “Why do my box truck/trailer lights keep blowing fuses—is it a short, a bad ground, or something else?” Short answer: Most repeated fuse failures come from chafed wiring (short-to-ground) or corroded/loose grounds that spike current. But overloaded circuits, water‑filled connectors, wrong fuse sizes, and DIY LED retrofits can also cook fuses. This guide walks you through causes, step-by-step diagnostics, permanent fixes, cost expectations, and the questions you should ask before throwing in another fuse. Quick Takeaways Fuses blow because current exceeds their rating. Either a direct short-to-ground or excessive resistance (bad ground/corrosion) causing voltage drops and heat in other spots. Ground faults are just as common as...
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Why Is My Box Truck Floor Bowing or Cracking Near the Rear Threshold?

  “Why Is My Floor Bowing or Cracking Near the Rear Threshold?” You roll a pallet jack over the back edge and feel a dip. The floor boards are separating, the rear edge is spider‑cracked, maybe even sagging at the door opening. Naturally you ask: “Why is my floor bowing or cracking near the rear threshold—and what’s the right fix?” Short answer: That rear 12–24 inches is the most abused, wettest, and least supported part of a box truck floor. Constant loading impacts, water intrusion, loose fasteners, and rusty crossmembers or rear sills lead to flex, rot, and cracks. This guide explains the root causes, how to diagnose them, repair vs. replace options, costs, prevention—and the questions you should be asking before anyone just screws a plate over the damage and calls it a day. Quick Takeaways Impact + Moisture + Weak Support = Bowing and Cracks. Pallet jacks, forklifts, and dock plates hammer the rear edge; water sneaks in through door seals and bolt holes. Rear sills,...
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How Much Does a Box Truck Roof Repair Typically Cost?

  “How Much Does a Box Truck Roof Repair Typically Cost?” Rain’s dripping on freight, sealant is chalked, or a low branch punched a hole in your roof—now you need numbers. “How much does a box truck roof repair typically cost?” The truthful answer: it depends on leak location, roof material (aluminum vs. FRP), scope (single patch vs. whole re‑skin), hidden water damage, and how fast you need it. This guide gives you real-world price ranges, what drives them up or down, how shops build estimates, and the smart questions to ask before you authorize work. Quick Takeaways Small professional patches (one puncture or short seam failure) generally run $200–$1,000 and can be done same day to 1–2 days. Multiple patches / full seam reseal jobs land around $500–$2,500 depending on length and prep. Full aluminum roof re‑skin typically costs $2,000–$5,000+ (parts + labor). Translucent FRP panels cost more: $2,500–$6,500+ . Hidden damage (rotted bows, wet insulation, inte...
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